A scarf is an ideal first wearable project because it is worked flat in rows with no shaping, no increasing, and no decreasing. You practice the same two movements repeatedly until your tension becomes even, and you end up with something you can actually wear. This tutorial uses only chains and double crochet, which creates a soft, drapey fabric that grows faster than single crochet.
What You Will Need
Keep materials simple for your first scarf. Fancy yarn can wait until your hands know the stitches.
Yarn: Two skeins of medium-weight yarn, labeled #4 / worsted / afghan. Look for about 350-400 yards per skein, so roughly 700 yards total for a scarf that is 6-7 inches wide and 60 inches long. Choose a smooth acrylic or acrylic-blend in a light solid color. Light colors let you see the top loops of stitches clearly. Avoid black, textured boucle, or yarns that split into thin plies for your first attempt.
Hook: A 6.0 mm hook, US size J-10. This size pairs well with worsted yarn for a scarf that is soft rather than stiff. If you know you crochet very tightly and it is hard to insert your hook, go up to 6.5 mm. If you crochet very loosely with large gaps, go down to 5.5 mm. An ergonomic handle helps if you plan to work longer than 20 minutes at a time.
Other tools: Scissors and a yarn needle with a blunt tip and large eye for weaving in ends. Two locking stitch markers are optional but very useful for marking the first and last stitch.
Stitches Used in This Tutorial
This scarf uses only three concepts:
Slip knot: The loop that attaches yarn to hook to start.
Chain (ch): Yarn over, pull through loop on hook. Chains are the foundation and also create height when you turn.
Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.
The turning chain for double crochet is chain 3. In this tutorial, chain 3 counts as your first double crochet of the row. That detail is important for keeping edges straight.
Step 1: Make the Foundation Chain
- Make a slip knot leaving a 6-inch tail and place it on your hook. Snug it so it slides but does not spin freely.
- Chain 23. Try to keep each chain the same size. Do not yank tight after each chain. The chain should be loose enough that you can easily insert your hook into the bump on the back.
Why 23? We want 20 double crochet stitches across. Double crochet needs 3 chains for height. So 20 stitches + 3 turning chains = 23 chains. For a wider scarf, chain any number, then your final stitch count will be that number minus 3. For a narrower scarf, chain fewer.
If your foundation chain is too tight, your scarf will pucker at the bottom. If this keeps happening, make the foundation chain with a hook one size larger, then switch back to 6.0 mm for the rest.
Step 2: Work Row 1 Into the Chain
This is the row where most beginners gain or lose stitches, so count carefully.
Double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook. The hook is not counted, count the loops on the chain itself. The 3 chains you skipped count as the first double crochet.
Double crochet in each remaining chain across. When you finish, you should have 20 double crochet stitches, including the chain-3 you counted as a stitch. You can place a marker in the top of that chain-3 so you can find it on the next row.
Lay the row flat and check: it should be about 6 to 7 inches wide. If it is much narrower, your chains were too tight. If much wider, you may have added extra chains.
Step 3: Work Row 2 and Establish the Repeat
From now on, every row is the same.
- Chain 3, turn. Your work turns clockwise. The chain-3 is now the first stitch of the new row.
- Because chain-3 counts as a stitch, you skip the very first stitch at the base of the chain-3. Work your next double crochet into the second stitch of the previous row.
- Double crochet in each stitch across.
- For the last stitch of the row, work into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Insert your hook under the top two loops of that chain-3. This is easy to miss. If you skip it, your scarf will get narrower each row.
After Row 2, count again. You should still have 20 stitches.
Row 2 is the repeating row for the entire scarf.
Repeat Row 2: Chain 3, turn, skip first st, dc in each st across, dc in top of turning ch.
Continue repeating until the scarf measures about 60 inches long when laid flat without stretching. Measure on a table, not while holding it up. Double crochet grows about 1 inch every 2 rows with this yarn, so you will need roughly 120 rows for 60 inches.
Step 4: Managing Yarn and Tension as You Go
Counting: Count stitches every 2 to 3 rows for the first 10 rows. After that, count every 5 rows. Catching a mistake early is much easier than fixing 20 rows later.
Tension: Focus on letting the shaft of the hook set the size of the loop, not pulling tight after each stitch. After you pull up a loop, the loop on the hook should be able to slide freely along the shaft. If you tug the working yarn after finishing a stitch, the fabric becomes tight and hard to work into.
Joining a new skein: When you have about 12 inches left, stop before completing the last yarn over of a double crochet. Drop old yarn, pick up new yarn, yarn over with new yarn and pull through remaining 2 loops. Leave 6-inch tails of both yarns to weave in later. Continue with new yarn. Do not knot, knots can come undone and create bumps.
Hand fatigue: Every 20 to 30 minutes, put work down, open and close hands, roll wrists. Keep elbows close to body and work in your lap, not up near your chest.
Step 5: Fasten Off and Weave In Ends
When scarf reaches desired length, complete the last row, then cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Yarn over and pull tail completely through loop on hook, pulling snug to secure. This is called fastening off.
Thread tail onto yarn needle. Weave through the backs of stitches in same color for 2 inches, turn and go back 1 inch in a slightly different path, then trim close to fabric. Repeat for starting tail and any joining tails. Weaving in two directions keeps ends from popping out after washing.
Optional: Add Fringe
Fringe is not required but finishes the ends nicely.
- Cut pieces of yarn 12 inches long. For moderate fullness, cut 40 pieces, 20 per end.
- Hold 2 pieces together, fold in half to make a loop at fold.
- Insert hook through first stitch at short edge, pull loop through about an inch, then pull the 4 tails through loop and tighten. This is a lark’s head knot.
- Repeat evenly across edge, spacing every stitch or every other stitch.
- Lay scarf flat and trim fringe ends even with sharp scissors.
Common Problems and Quick Fixes
Scarf gets narrower or wider: Almost always caused by the last stitch. Use markers in the top of the turning chain and in the first stitch of each row until you can spot them by eye.
Edges look wavy: You may be adding an extra stitch at the beginning by working into the base of the turning chain in addition to counting the turning chain as a stitch. Remember: if chain-3 counts as a stitch, skip the first stitch.
Fabric feels like cardboard: Hook too small or tension too tight. Go up to 6.5 mm or consciously loosen pinky wrap that controls yarn flow.
Fabric has large holes: Hook too large or tension too loose. Go down to 5.5 mm or add a light wrap around pinky for more control.
Bottom edge tighter than top: Foundation chain too tight. Re-do foundation with 6.5 mm hook, then switch to 6.0 mm for rest. This is a very common fix and makes a big difference.
Scarf twists: You may be twisting chain as you work Row 1. Make sure foundation chain is not twisted before joining first stitch.
Caring for Your Scarf
If you used acrylic, machine wash gentle in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping to 6 inches by 60 inches while damp. Acrylic can also be lightly steamed to even out stitches, hold iron 1 inch above fabric, do not press.
If you used wool blend, check label. Many require hand wash cold.
This simple repeat of chain 3, turn, double crochet across is the backbone of many patterns. Once you can maintain 20 stitches with straight edges for 60 inches, you have the control needed for hats, blankets, and more textured stitch patterns.