If you only learn two stitches in crochet, make them single crochet and double crochet. Every other stitch is a variation of them. Single crochet is the shortest, densest building block. Double crochet is taller, softer, and faster. Understanding how they differ in height, fabric, and function helps you choose the right one for each project instead of just following a pattern blindly.

How They Are Made

The difference is one yarn over at the start, which changes everything.

Single crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. You have 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over first, then insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. You have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.

Single crochet has no starting yarn over and one pull-through. Double crochet has a starting yarn over and two pull-throughs. That extra wrap makes double crochet about twice as tall as single crochet when worked in the same yarn and hook.

At a Glance Comparison

Height and size:

• Single crochet: ∼1/4 inch tall with worsted yarn on a 5.5 mm hook
• Double crochet: ∼1/2 to 5/8 inch tall, roughly 2-2.5x taller than single crochet

Turning chain:

• Single crochet: chain 1. In most modern patterns it does NOT count as a stitch.
• Double crochet: chain 3. In most patterns it DOES count as the first double crochet.

This is critical for straight edges. If chain-3 counts as a stitch, you skip the first stitch of the previous row after turning. If chain-1 does not count, you work into the first stitch.

Fabric:

• Single crochet: dense, tight, opaque, almost woven-looking. Minimal gaps between stitches.
• Double crochet: open, airy, soft. Small spaces between the tall posts give it drape and breathability.

Stretch and structure:

• Single crochet: holds shape, does not stretch much, good for structure.
• Double crochet: drapes and flows, has more give, not ideal for items that must not stretch.

Speed and yarn use:

• Single crochet: uses less yarn per stitch but requires many more rows to cover the same area, so slower.
• Double crochet: uses more yarn per stitch but covers area much faster. Total yardage for same dimensions is often similar.

What the Fabric Looks and Feels Like

Work a swatch of 20 stitches by 20 rows in each stitch and you will feel the difference immediately.

Single crochet produces a firm, flat fabric. The tops form tight V’s that sit close together. There is little space between rows. When you squeeze it, it feels thick like a dense knit placemat. It is warm because air cannot easily pass through.

Double crochet produces a fabric with visible vertical posts. Between posts you see small gaps. The tops are further apart. When you squeeze it, it compresses and then springs back, and drapes over your hand like a soft cloth. It is cooler and more flexible.

That structural difference drives all the decisions about when to use each.

When to Use Single Crochet

Use single crochet when you need solidity, durability, and shape retention.

1. Amigurumi, toys, and dolls: This is almost exclusively single crochet. Worked with a hook 1-2 mm smaller than the yarn label suggests, the fabric becomes tight enough that stuffing does not show through. Example: label says 5.0 mm, use 3.5 mm for amigurumi.

2. Bags, baskets, bins, and organizers: A bag in double crochet will stretch and sag when loaded. A bag in single crochet holds its shape. For extra rigidity, many basket patterns use single crochet with two strands held together.

3. Dishcloths, washcloths, and potholders: Cotton in single crochet creates a firm, absorbent, heat-resistant fabric. For potholders, double-thick single crochet is important for safety.

4. Borders, edgings, and seaming: Single crochet makes a clean, low-profile edge that does not add height. It is ideal for bordering blankets, joining granny squares, or seaming two pieces together.

5. Colorwork and tapestry: Because stitches are short and compact, color changes in single crochet produce sharp, pixel-like lines. This is why tapestry crochet and graph-based patterns use single crochet.

6. Learning tension control: Single crochet’s tight loops force you to learn how to keep loops even and how to identify stitch tops.

When to Use Double Crochet

Use double crochet when you need softness, drape, speed, and openness.

1. Scarves, shawls, wraps, and ponchos: These items need to flow and drape around the body. Double crochet creates a soft fabric that moves. A worsted scarf in double crochet with a 6.0 mm hook takes roughly half the rows of single crochet.

2. Blankets and afghans: Time matters on large projects. A throw blanket that takes 30 hours in double crochet might take 50+ hours in single crochet. The extra drape also makes blankets feel cuddly rather than stiff.

3. Granny squares and lace motifs: The classic granny square is built from 3-double-crochet clusters separated by chains. The height of double crochet creates the iconic open, lacy look. It is difficult to make a true granny square in single crochet without losing the character.

4. Summer garments and breathable layers: For tops, cardigans, or baby items where airflow is desirable, double crochet provides coverage without heaviness.

5. Projects where you want quick progress: The visual reward of fast growth helps beginners stay motivated. You see length after just a few rows.

Using Both in One Project

Many good designs intentionally use both to get structure where needed and softness where wanted.

Hat: Single crochet or single crochet in back loop only for the brim gives stretch and a snug fit that holds. Double crochet for the body gives height and softness.

Bag: Single crochet base for firm bottom, double crochet sides for quick height and flexibility.

Scarf with texture: Alternating 2 rows single crochet and 2 rows double crochet creates a fabric that is more interesting than either stitch alone, denser than pure double crochet but softer than pure single crochet. Just remember to match turning chains to the next row: chain 1 before a single crochet row, chain 3 before a double crochet row.

Blanket border: Work the main blanket in double crochet for speed and drape, then finish with 2 rounds of single crochet border to stabilize edges and prevent curling.

Common Mistakes When Switching Between Them

1. Wrong turning chain height. Chaining 1 after a double crochet row will pull the edge in. Chaining 3 before a single crochet row will leave a gap. Always chain the height of the stitch you are about to work.

2. Working into the wrong stitch after turning. If your pattern counts chain-3 as a stitch, skip the first stitch at the base of that chain. If chain-1 does not count, work into the first stitch. Check the stitch count at end of row to confirm. If you have one too many, you likely worked into the base of a counting turning chain.

3. Tension shift. Many crocheters work double crochet more loosely because they pull through more loops. This makes mixed-stitch fabric wavy, tight at single crochet sections, loose at double crochet sections. Focus on letting the shaft of the hook determine loop size, not how hard you pull.

4. Missing the last stitch. In double crochet, the top of the turning chain from previous row can be hard to see. If your piece is getting narrower, you are skipping it. Place a stitch marker in the top of the turning chain.

How to Decide Quickly

Ask yourself what the item must do:

• Does it need to hold shape, not stretch, and be solid? Choose single crochet. Think: toys, bags, baskets, coasters, potholders, borders.
• Does it need to be soft, drape, breathe, and grow fast? Choose double crochet. Think: scarves, shawls, blankets, granny squares, garments.
• Does it need both? Combine them. Use single crochet for structure zones and double crochet for drape zones.

Single crochet is your foundation for control and durability. Double crochet is your foundation for softness and speed. Once you can keep even tension and straight edges with both, you can tackle almost any beginner to intermediate pattern and start adjusting patterns intentionally to change how the final piece feels.